Vantage 2013 Again | chossclimbers.com

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Summary

Into the short crux section of Welcome To Vantage (5.10c).

A late Friday night drive to Vantage and a minor exchange of words with a truck driver at a rest area outside of Yakima. Where the fuck does one find a wood chipper at 1am in central Washington boondocks? Another good day at the Sunshine wall on Saturday. Shirley warmed us up on the pretty good Bob Dylan (5.10b) route – mostly thin hands with plenty of restful incuts. I led the next door Welcome To Vantage (5.10c) line – a decent crack in a dihedral that tightens up at the tippy top. I somehow eked out an on-sight of Spinning Mars (5.11b) line just left of Party In Your Pants and Shirley rounded out the day with her OS of In Too Deep (5.10a). This last one was memorable because it was Shirley’s first off-width lead and also because she had some character building runout near the top.

Photos

Shirley leading the cruiser Bob Dylan (5.10b) on the Sunshine Wall – a nice crack clocking in at #0.75 to #1 Camalot size (no worries, lots of incuts; March 2013).

Sharing the lead with Shirley on Bob Dylan (5.10b; March 2013).

Starting up the mostly easy Welcome To Vantage (5.10c). There’s a short crux at the top where the crack pinches down (March 2013).

Shirley on Welcome To Vantage (5.10c) on the Sunshine Wall…a decent line with a short crux near the top (March 2013).

Into the short crux section of Welcome To Vantage (5.10c).

Shirley topping out on the pretty nice Welcome To Vantage (5.10c) route (March 2013).

How that is a comfy pose I do not know…

Leading Spinning Mars (5.11b) and somehow lucking out on an onsight. Famous Party In Your Pants (5.8) is on the right (March 2013).

Shirley on Spinning Mars (5.11b). There’s a perfect ledge just above and to the right of Shirley and from there the fun begins in earnest (March 2013).

Shirley higher on the thin Spinning Mars (5.11b) route. Basically a series of finger locks in pods separated by thing stemming moves and a thin (#00 TCU) crack for protection. Clean rock though (March 2013).

Shirley starting up the In Too Deep route – a nice 5.10a off-width crack and Shirley’s first lead of such a beast (March 2013).

The start of the business wideness of In Too Deep – fortunately it was Shirley’s lead (March 2013).

Somebody ran short on the 6″ cams and had a nice 20 foot (not so trivial ground) runout to the anchors on In Too Deep (5.10a OW; March 2013).

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